From Rytra to Niemcowa through Kordowiec

Nearby: Nowy SÄ…cz
Medium - For young hikers, steep sections possible
straighten  Distance 6.7km
timer Time 3h 26min
north_east Ascents 704m
south_east Descents 69m
Elevation Profile:
max 979 m min 344 m
terrain  The slope of the terrain
wb_sunny  Route in the sun
directions_car  Access by car
directions_bus  Can be reached by bus
train  Access by train possible

The red trail from Rytra to Niemcowa through Brzozowy Gronik and Kordowiec is a very scenic route, where we walk through beautiful meadows, fields, and forests.

Red trail from Rytra to Niemcowa - Polana Poczekaj
Red trail from Rytra to Niemcowa - Polana Poczekaj

Red trail from Rytra to Brzozowy Gronik

The first part of our hike (about 1 hour) is a steep climb on asphalt roads through buildings and farmland. We climb in the sun, and slowly the views of the surrounding area open up to us:

Red trail from Rytra to Brzozowy Gronik, Kordowiec, Niemcowa, Wielki Rogacz, and Radziejowa
Red trail from Rytra to Brzozowy Gronik, Kordowiec, Niemcowa, Wielki Rogacz, and Radziejowa
Red trail - view of Rytra
Red trail - view of Rytra

You can see more photos from this section of the trail here:

Brzozowy Gronik - viewpoint in Rytro

Easy
directions_walk child_friendly

Brzozowy Gronik - viewpoint in Rytro

max 525 m min 344 m
straighten 1.8km
timer 55min
north_east 192m
south_east 15m

The first stop is worth planning at Brzozowy Gronik - it is a beautiful viewpoint!

Brzozowy Gronik - Kamienny Groń - Kordowiec

After Brzozowy Gronik, our path finally flattens out a bit, but that doesn't mean we won't be climbing anymore!

Red trail from Rytro to Niemcowa
Red trail from Rytro to Niemcowa

Note: even though the red trail is the "Main Beskid Trail," the markings at intersections leave much to be desired... Look for signs and markings at every road fork!

Kamienny Groń is a forest clearing that we pass through on a narrow path at the upper edge of the forest. Just beyond it, we will find Kordowiec - a former hamlet, accessible by municipal trails from Młodów (blue) and from Rytra through Obłazy Ryterskie (green).

Kordowiec: meadow on the red trail from Rytro to Niemcowa and Radziejowa
Kordowiec: meadow on the red trail from Rytro to Niemcowa and Radziejowa

Kordowiec - Polana Poczekaj - Niemcowa Niżna, and Psiarka

After the clearing at Kordowiec, we enter the forest again. On its edge, there is a spring, but we cannot comment on the water quality... Beyond the forest, we encounter a vast, scenic, and simply beautiful meadow of the former settlement called Poczekaj:

Poczekaj Glade - view of the Jaworzyna Krynicka range
Poczekaj Glade - view of the Jaworzyna Krynicka range

This is where the famous grandmother Ludwika Nowakowa, "Queen of the Mountains," lived alone, assisted by the locals. It is associated with the story of "Jackowa Pościel" - the Valley of Remembrance along the yellow trail from Piwniczna-Zdrój to Niemcowa. Today, at Poczekaj, we will find one farmhouse (difficult to say if inhabited) and one ruined farmhouse.

Polana Poczekaj
Polana Poczekaj

There is also a place for a bonfire - unfenced, it appears to be accessible to everyone:

Polana Poczekaj - place for a bonfire
Polana Poczekaj - place for a bonfire

Another ascent through the forest, and soon another meadow, this time with a large and well-maintained farm. This is Niemcowa Niżna:

Farmhouse on the meadow of Niemcowa Niżna
Farmhouse on the meadow of Niemcowa Niżna

Mountain "School above the clouds" and Hut on Niemcowa

The place we are in is associated with an extraordinary story about a mountain school that was located at the western edge of the Niemcowa meadow, on the so-called Psiarka, and was immortalized in the story of Maria Kownacka "School above the clouds". Today, only the stone foundations and a commemorative plaque remain.

Mountain "School above the Clouds" on Niemcowa - facts and curiosities

Mountain "School above the Clouds" on Niemcowa - facts and curiosities

The mountain school on Niemcowa, known as the "School above the Clouds" from Maria Kownacka's book, was located on a meadow below the summit of Niemcowa from 1938 to 1961. It was the highest school in Poland (1026 meters above sea level). ...

Foundations of the "elementary mountain school" on Niemcowa - below the road
Foundations of the "elementary mountain school" on Niemcowa - below the road

Another place that has disappeared is the iconic shelter: "Hut under Niemcowa," known for its Spartan conditions but also its unique atmosphere. This place suspended its operations "indefinitely" in 2020.

Niemcowa / Trześniowy Groń 1001 m above sea level

From the Niemcowa meadow, we climb fairly steeply uphill through the forest path, passing the summit of Niemcowa on the right (963 m above sea level):

Red trail from Rytra to Niemcowa
Red trail from Rytra to Niemcowa

...and we reach a vast - and full of blueberries! - clearing with the peak of Trześniowy Groń (1001 m above sea level), also known as Złotułki, and labeled as "Niemcowa" on the signboard. The yellow trail from Piwniczna-Zdrój also reaches here.

Niemcowa - intersection of the red and yellow trails
Niemcowa - intersection of the red and yellow trails

...and what's next?

From Niemcowa, we can:

  • return the same way to Rytra - the descent will take about 2 hours
  • descend to Piwniczna-Zdrój via the yellow trail (1.5 hours, 6 km)
  • continue further with the red markings to Wielki Rogacz and Radziejowa - the queen of the Beskid SÄ…decki. It's about 2 more hours from Niemcowa (4.5 km and about 350 m of elevation gain).
Niemcowa - intersection of the red and yellow trails
Niemcowa - intersection of the red and yellow trails

PS. This trail has been included in our list of the most beautiful trails in the Beskid SÄ…decki. Discover the others:

TOP 5 Beskid SÄ…decki - the most beautiful scenic trails

TOP 5 Beskid SÄ…decki - the most beautiful scenic trails

Beskid SÄ…decki is a long forested ridge of the Radziejowa and Jaworzyna Krynicka ranges, rising above the picturesque bends of the Poprad River. Here, you will find kilometers of hiking trails, lookout towers, and vast meadows with beautiful panoramas. Which routes offer the most stunning views? ...

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