Krakow Houses - A Keen Eye

As tourists exploring Krakow, we can admire the interesting patterns and ornaments on the buildings and learn about their history and the history of the city.

House Emblems - Just Decoration?

House emblems are not just decorative elements - they used to serve a very important function. In the past, houses were not numbered like they are now. The emblems placed above the gates were like old-fashioned 'addresses'.

Starting point: Mikołajska Street

Length of the route: about 2.5 km

Public transport stop: Poczta Główna (Main Post Office)

Mikołajska Street

1. Chestnut Leaves and Chestnuts

Mikołajska Street 13 - Building of the Trade Union Printing House

We look up high - searching for chestnut leaves and chestnuts. In Krakow, the tradition of decorating architecture with the motif of chestnut leaves is particularly rich. They often adorn the facades of buildings and gates. This is an Art Nouveau motif. The word 'secession' in Latin means 'departure'. The architects did not like mass production of decorative elements, nor did they want to imitate ancient art - they wanted to stand out, depart from what was common, and create something exceptional. During our walk, let's also look for other chestnut trees and chestnuts!

2. 'Under the Three Linden Trees' House

Mikołajska Street 16

Floriańska Street

1. 'Under the Moors' House

Floriańska Street 1

At the corner of Floriańska Street and the Main Square, we can spot two Moors holding a basket of grapes. Several centuries ago, there was the most famous pharmacy in Krakow here - it was called 'Under Ethiopia' (after Ethiopia, a country in Africa). In the past, many medicinal ingredients were brought by ships from distant, exotic countries.

2. 'Under the Squirrel' House

Floriańska Street 15

We look for a friendly squirrel above the door. In the 'Under the Squirrel' House, there used to live a surgeon who founded the first surgical clinic in Krakow.

3. 'Under the Bells' House

Floriańska Street 24

Now we search for bells above the door. In the 'Under the Bells' House, craftsmen who cast metal objects had their workshops - hence the 3 bells on the emblem. Later, there was a wine shop here, so the owner decorated the bells with grapes.

Houses on the Main Square

1. The First Chocolate Factory in the City

Main Square 47

There used to be a chocolate shop here, where chocolate from the first chocolate factory in the city was sold. The factory still exists today under the name 'Wawel'.

2. 'Under the Eagle' House

Main Square 45

Now we look up high - under the roof of one of the houses, we try to spot the eagle that adorns the building. We can find another eagle above the main entrance of the house. The eagle under the eaves is actually a Phoenix (a mythical red-gold bird, similar to an eagle, which ancient priests burned in a fire, and it would come back to life after 3 days) - it is a sculpture designed by Stanisław Wyspiański. He was a famous writer and painter who lived in Krakow. You can learn more about Stanisław Wyspiański from our book (available as a free e-book) Staszkowa Expedition in the Footsteps of Stanisław.

3. 'Under the Pear' House

On the corner of Szczepańska Street and Sławkowska Street, one of the oldest pharmacies in the city has been operating for many years - it is already 200 years old. Look at the emblem of the house and try to guess its name. Did you notice the tiger's head? It is the 'Under the Golden Tiger' Pharmacy, and the house is called 'Under the Pear'.

4. The First Café in Krakow?

Main Square 31

There was the first café in Krakow here, which was famous for its beautiful silver spoons chained to the table! In the past, it was customary to take cutlery as a souvenir after a feast, especially if they were richly decorated or made of precious metals.

5. 'Under the Metal' House

Main Square 29

The former owners of the house were wealthy people. They managed mines and smelters in Olkusz. They were so rich that they could afford to cover the roof of the house with copper. That's why the house was called 'Under the Metal'. However, the wives of later residents were very extravagant, always demanding money, and the metal disappeared from the roof of the house. Since then, the house has been called the 'House without Metal'.

6. Traces of Sheep Breeders

Main Square 29

We continue along the Main Square. Long ago, Jews who bred sheep used to live in the vicinity of Szewska Street. Let's look for these little sheep and lambs. Let's briefly turn into Szewska Street - under number 7, we will find the 'House Under the Lamb'. Let's go back to the Main Square and turn right. Once again, we focus our gaze and search for what? Of course, more lambs! Or rather, just their heads. Do you see them? That means we are at the 'Palace Under the Rams' Main Square 27. And right next to it, we have another house, 'Under the Lamb' Main Square 28.

7. 'Under the Picture' House

Main Square 19

It has a large image of the Virgin Mary on it - a fire that once broke out in the city stopped here, which was considered a miracle. On the other side of Grodzka Street, but still on the Main Square, we will find the 'Under the Lizards' House (Main Square 8) and the 'Under the Golden Carp' House (Main Square 10).

Grodzka Street

1. The Oldest House Emblem

Grodzka Street 32

We search for a house with a lion emblem - 'Podelwie'. We see a lion with a gilded mane leaning over the lion cubs. This is the oldest house emblem - it dates back to the 14th century.

2. 'Under the Elephants' House

Grodzka Street 38

Now let's try to find an elephant and a rhinoceros. In the past, during the time of knights - in the Middle Ages, Krakow ended here. Behind this house, there was already a deep ravine and the city walls.

3. Wita Stwosza House

Grodzka Street 32

The famous Krakow sculptor had his residence and workshop here. This is where the sculptures for the Mariacki Altar were created. While passing by, make sure to learn the legend of the found shoe behind the altar - The Story of the Yellow Boot. Let's turn into Poselska Street. This street used to run along the city walls, which is why the street forms a slight curve. Straszewskiego Street used to be part of the road that surrounded the city on the outside of the defensive walls.

Retoryka Street

1. The House of a Hundred Balconies

Retoryka Street 4 This is an interesting example of an art movement called modernism. This movement developed after the Second World War. Architects did not use decorations on buildings - like the ones you saw on previous houses - as they believed that the beauty of a building lies in its functionality. Which art movement do you prefer - Art Nouveau with interesting patterns and ornaments or the raw, modernist style?

2. 'Under the Singing Frog' House

Retoryka Street 1

On the other side of the street, we find the 'Under the Singing Frog' House - in the past, the Rudawa River used to flow through the middle of Retoryka Street, and you could hear the croaking of frogs in the area. However, the frog on the facade of the house is not an ordinary frog - it is a frog playing the mandolin! There used to be a music school here. Is the 'Under the Singing Frog' House also in the modernist style? What do you think?

The 'Under the Singing Frog' House was designed by Teodor Talowski - one of the most prominent Polish architects. He had a great sense of humor! His buildings often stand out with interesting sculptures and asymmetry - we will talk about asymmetry at the next building. He used bricks made according to his own recipe, dark ones with ceramic knobs produced in his own brickyard - thanks to this, his houses are unique and easily recognizable. Unfortunately, he never revealed the recipe for the bricks he produced.

Bricks fired by Teodor Talowski in his own brickyard.

3. Teodor Talowski's House

Retoryka Street 9

The house where Teodor Talowski lived and also designed. Notice - it looks funny, it has different windows on each side. If an object has a different shape on one side and a different shape on the other, it means it is asymmetrical. This house is asymmetrical because the windows on the left side look different from the windows on the right side (there are balconies on the left, but not on the right; there is a turret on the right, but no turret on the left). Now try to find a symmetrical house or another symmetrical object.

4. Egyptian House

Retoryka Street 11

It has a large image of an Egyptian ornament covering the entire facade of the building (do you remember what a facade is?), as well as its interior. However, after renovation, the Egyptian decorations were removed, and only the Egyptian doors remained.

Smoleńsk Street

1. 'Under the Dragon' House

Smoleńsk Street 18

Now we look up high and search for a fearsome dragon. This house was also designed by the famous Krakow architect - do you remember his name?

Krasińskiego Avenue

1. 'Under the Owl' House

Krasińskiego Avenue 21

It was designed by one of Teodor Talowski's students. Is the house symmetrical?

Here we finish our route. For those who are more persevering, you can also walk or drive to Karmelicka Street, where the fabulous 'Under the Spider' House by Teodor Talowski is located (Karmelicka 32) and see the 'House under the Globe' (Długa 1), which was the seat of the Chamber of Commerce and Industry, hence the bas-reliefs on the facade of the building and stained glass windows depicting trade and industry - a steam locomotive, a telegraph pole, and a factory. On Długa Street 31, there is also the Turkish House with minarets.

'Under the Spider' House

'Under the Globe' House

'Turkish House'

What have you remembered from the tour:

1. Why do old houses have their emblems?

2. What was the name of the famous Polish architect who lived in Krakow? Do you remember which houses he designed?

3. What do buildings in the modernist style look like?

Photos: magdar Source: Muzeum Secesji, krakow4you

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Author: adelina
Publish Date: 2013-02-12