Trail above Portovenere with a view of the Bay of Poets
If you enjoy hiking, we recommend the loop trail running above Portovenere to the beautifully located Rifugio Muzzerone, a restaurant and refuge with a view of the Bay of Poets. There will be some uphill climbing, but the views will surely make up for the effort! Having a whole day in Portovenere, we easily combined the trail with exploring the town.
The trail is rugged, with steep ascents on uneven stones - trekking shoes are recommended. Suitable for older children.
Below you will find a description of the trail. You can find the description of the town and what is worth seeing in it in the article Portovenere - where Venus was born.
Trail Starting Point
The trail starts and ends at the Bastreri Square - the main square of the town of Portovenere. Next to it is the main gate leading to the old town, dating back to 1113! Walk around the square - you will easily find trail markers, one leading towards Campigli and the other towards Rifugio Muzzerone. Both trails merge at Rifugio Muzzerone, allowing us to enter through one and return through the other, creating a scenic loop.
However, it is best to start from the side of the castle (direction Campiglia) - the ascent is steeper and the descent will be more challenging. Choosing this direction will also provide better views during the descent. If you have limited time, the fastest way to reach the refuge is by taking the trail that leads directly to Rifugio Muzzerone.
The trail is well marked, and we had no trouble following its path.
Doria Castle
We started our climb from the side along the walls of Doria Castle - from this side, the trail is slightly steeper and more challenging to descend. However, the direction of passage does not matter much. The castle used to be a strategically important fortress, located right in the middle of the war front between Genoa and Pisa.
On the trail above the castle, there is a rocky ledge perfect for resting and serving as a great natural viewpoint.
Further along, the trail enters the shade of trees and shrubs. The path continues to ascend, but not for long - we soon reach a fork in the trail. At the fork, we take the gentler path towards Rifugio Muzzerone.
The climb goes on, and with every step upward, we are rewarded with beautiful views! In front of us, the island of Palmaria unfolds in all its splendor.
After reaching the fork in the trail, we choose the gentle path leading to Rifugio Muzzerone. After a short walk, we arrive at the idyllically located restaurant.
Rifugio Muzzerone
Rifugio Muzzerone is one of the highest houses above Portovenere - its location can be seen beautifully from the harbor. The view from the refuge is wonderful! The building looks like a small, private farmhouse. Inside, there are several tables, and more tables can be found outside. The prices are quite reasonable, and since we are here during the off-season, there are only a few customers. We order the daily dish and coffee.
From this point on, the trail starts descending towards Portovenere. And the path - although rocky and steep - is simply enchanting! We walk along stone walls and small farms, with a view of the bay and the island of Palmaria ahead.
Portovenere
Portovenere is a former fishing village - supposedly, it is here that the goddess Venus emerged from the sea foam. On the promontory stood a pagan temple, which was later replaced by the Church of St. Peter. The town, along with the islands of Palmaria, Tino, Tinetto, and Cinque Terre, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can read more about what is worth seeing in Portovenere here:
Portovenere - where Venus was born
Porto Venere - attractions, trails, and viewpoints ...
Publish Date: 2023-03-02
More in the Region Włochy (Italy)
Total Length 60 km
